There are two options for descending from the top of Spearhead, one going east and the other west. After choosing the objective, we decided to make a two-day ascent to take advantage of the scenic bivouac opportunities in upper Glacier Gorge, located just minutes from the base of the climbing. Prepare yourself for the adventure of a lifetime. High quality furniture brand. Each pitch has options for good protection and solid belay anchors. One-day ascents are common, but require a very early (3am?) This equals a fairly gradual gradient. The Baker North Ridge is one of top 5 classic ice routes in the lower 48 states and one of the 50 classic climbs of North America. Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children. First around 3 days before and again within 12 hours of departure. All Rights Reserved. After a scenic hike, there are abundant places to bivy in upper Glacier Gorge as Mike and his clients did, but the climb is often done in one long day going car to car. Our Avalanc, @andyhansenmountainguide Showed @climbstuf the col, Climbing to the top of the year. Refer to Rossiter’s guide for good descriptions and photos. Spiral Route, Notchtop. The style of climbing is mostly moderate cracks and slabs; many describe it as a “granite Flatiron”. The team on the summit The Spearhead Traverse is a classic. The wind was moderate with gusts (~20mph) and required us to use non-verbal communication strategies between climber and belayer. Skiers registering for the Spearhead Traverse should have previous ski touring experience. I’d recommend the West Side descent, which involves class 2-3 scrambling on talus and ledges and requires a good nose for route finding. A beautiful, white northeast-facing wall which starts as a slab and steadily rises to vertical, Spearhead is surrounded and dwarfed by taller mountains in the center of the Glacier Gorge Cirque-- one of the most beautiful spots on earth. Colorado Mountain School is an equal opportunity provider and is operated under special use permit with the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forest. I guided a two-day ascent of this climb on July 17-18 via the classic and moderate North Ridge route (III, 5.6). Many will want a rope for belaying short sections of exposed 4th class on the East Side descent. (720) 387-8944. This is the undefined ridge that separates the vast, unbroken northeast face from the more broken northwest face. Shouldn't need more than this. Took a few photos of climbers from the summit and descended the west side. Nonetheless we made steady progress and I was feeling pretty good when we arrived at the base of The Spearhead's north ridge a little after 06:00. Trail: The North Ridge, Class 5.6, ~11 miles, 3300 ft elevation gain. (53), Climber's Log Entries The climber's path heads around the left side of the lake. Emphasis on the long runners. @mtnmia taught this cool cat about mixed climbing! The route follows a narrow face up a sweep of granite as it steepens into the sky. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. The North Ridge however is only an 'ok' route. The route follows a narrow face up a sweep of granite as it steepens into the sky. From Black Lake, an unimproved trail climbs steeply east to the upper bench of the gorge, where you’ll follow cairns along the glacial moraine to the bivouac sites. For us, we reached the summit at 11am and the top was windy! Gym Climbing to Real Rock, or, Why You Need to Go Outside Now, First Descents Climbing Camps: Moab May 2011, Classic Alpine Rock: The Cathedral Spires, Fitness For A Cause: Boulderites Mix Athleticism With Volunteerism, New to Outdoor Sport Climbing? The inclusion of the Spearhead's north ridge represents a typical elitist upping of the ante, wherein the elite climber at least doubles either the difficulty or number of pitches of proposed technical climbing. Spearhead’s North Ridge requires a 6-mile approach, gaining 2,000’ of elevation from the Glacier Gorge trailhead. The Spearhead Trip Report. The Spearhead is one of the premier alpine rock climbing destinations in RMNP. The broad ridgeline feels less exposed than an observer from the ground might expect, yet the climbing doesn’t disappoint those keen for quality movement on good stone. There are 18 active homes for sale in North Ridge, Raleigh, NC. Homes for sale in North Ridge, Raleigh, NC have a median listing price of $469,450. The approach, climb, and descent were all snow-free and dry. This climb has no fixed anchors and requires solid and efficient multi-pitch climbing skills. Round trip from Glacier Gorge Parking. Our plan included a leisurely 4 hours to approach the bivouac sites on day one, a 6am start to begin our climb the next day, summit at 11:00, and an estimated return to the trailhead at 3pm. Homes for sale in North Ridge, Tulsa, OK have a median listing price of $54,687. North Ridge, Spearhead. Slings/cord for building your own belay anchors. The north ridge of the Spearhead is considered by many to be the best climb of its grade in Rocky Mountain National Park and possibly in the country. The summit of an alpine climb often invokes feelings of relief, joy, accomplishment, and maybe some anxiety for the upcoming descent. 1. The first few pitches ascend some ugly and sort of dirty gullies. The scenery grows more dramatic as you climb from Mills to Black Lake, where you’ll catch your first views into upper Glacier Gorge. McHenry's looms over Black Lake. On most days, you should plan to summit before noon or hope to get lucky with the weather. We were nearly spot-on in our time plans. Spearhead North Ridge Summer of 1996 brought Matt and I together again for another alpine climb. The climbing is clean and consistent with an … Set at the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park, the North Ridge of the Spearhead looks out at the backside of Longs Peak and follows a long, exposed ridge to a dramatic pointed summit. Climb over Decker mountain. This will take a solid 3 hours for most parties moving at a moderate and consistent hiking pace. The climb is 8 pitches long on solid granite, with mostly 5.4-5.5 climbing and two pitches of 5.6. The North Ridge of Spearhead is an easy, high quality, fun route, in the beautiful setting of Glacier Gorge in Rocky Mountain National Park. The North Ridge of Spearhead is a perfect intro to alpine rock climbing for the experienced multi-pitch climber with good physical fitness. I like to carry a small summit pack with snacks, water, a rain jacket, small knife, and a first aid kit/locator beacon. Mike is also a member of the AMGA Instructor Team. The first rays of the sun light up The Arrowhead. North Buttress (5.7, 6 pitches) Pagoda Mountain, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. I picked up Jerry Sanchez and Bo Lalovic at 6:00am. Jeff and I quickly dug out our climbing gear, had a quick bite to eat, and headed for the north ridge of Spearhead. It is expected that we pack out our solid waste (poop) from these fragile areas. Feeling a little bleary-eyed, I met Fabio at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead at 3:00. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. I like to check the weather at least twice before alpine outings. Most parties, including ours, begin on Blackcomb Mountain and end on Whistler Mountain. Spearhead, North Ridge (Alpine 5.6) Price: 1 person – $599 / 2 people – $999. So, I decided to do both! This is a great climb for those who are getting introduced to more technical alpine climbing and want to climb one the most classic routes in the park. mossberg 500 shot gun 12 ga. wood stock set. The climb is 8 pitches long on solid granite, with mostly 5.4-5.5 climbing and two pitches of 5.6. Coming up the 5.5 chimney at the end of P1. Get Started at These 5 Denver-Area Crags, Analysis of a Historic Avalanche Cycle: The Spring of 2019, Backcountry Skiing & Splitboarding Courses. Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' Nice bivy spots 5 minutes from the start of the route. Images Pass Mills Lake, Black Lake and up east drainage weaving the best path the North Ridge of the Spearhead. Consider a personal locator beacon for emergencies. He had climbed the route four or five times and was happy to climb it again. Unfortunately, after scrambling the North Ridge of Spearhead (right skyline here), and traversing to the saddle between it and Chiefshead, my right knee forced an early exit back to the car via the Glacier Gorge trail. Colorado Climbing | Ten Best Climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park. Most routes are on the face directly above the meadow, and the North Ridge is around the corner to the right. The North Ridge route begins at the NW corner of the mountain. Climb North Ridge rated 5.6 with a few variances and the last pitch is an exposed hand/finger crack. Refer to p168 of Rossiter’s RMNP guidebook for details. There are several intersections to navigate, but overall it is quite easy to follow. Current conditions require minimal snow travel. 3. The North Ridge is give or take nine pitches of sustained, but very moderate fifth class climbing directly to the summit of Spearhead. "I'd climb the North Ridge every summer," he mentioned at one point. To the north of the summit ridge was a sheer 1000’ face dropping nearly to the base of The Spearhead. We found the approach, climb, and descent in excellent and dry condition. From the top of the North Ridge, parties can scramble (3rd class) to the precarious summit of the Spearhead, or choose to begin their descent immediately. Climbed 8/03 Spearhead Behind The Clouds This will take a solid 3 hours for most parties moving at a moderate and consistent hiking pace. Report. Comfortable approach shoes and trekking poles are recommended for this hike. Nonetheless, we hung out to enjoy the spectacular views around Glacier Gorge, which include Longs Peak, Pagoda Mountain, and McHenry’s Peak. South Face, Petit Grepon. I was psyched to have my Rab Borealis Jacket to block the wind. The Northwest has the Spearhead Traverse. Spending an entire day on the Spearhead could lead to an unpleasant encounter with the common afternoon thunder/lightning storm. Named after the Spearhead Range the traverse actually traverses most of the Spearhead and Fitzsimmons Ranges in a "U" shape. The North Ridge is 8 pitches long on generally solid granite cracks and slabs. Spearhead’s North Ridge requires a 6-mile approach, gaining 2,000’ of elevation from the Glacier Gorge trailhead. Exceptional craftsmanship from our home to yours. Work your way around summit blocks to … since we have more than one for sale you will not receive the one on the pictures but a similar or better one. Expect clean, sharp flakes and cracks, as well as some brilliant face climbing on the harder routes. The two crux pitches come at the end of the route where it steepens and narrows, so prepare for a scenic finale. Photos courtesy of David Russell. So by Summer 2016, I was definitely feeling past due on another lap up the route. There is an inherent risk of being in the mountains and this climb is no exception. The Keyhole, Long's Peak . Video . © 2020 Colorado Mountain School, All rights reserved. You can go right over the top to the Trorey-Decker col, or drop down a steep slope from the east ridge of Decker to a lower part of the Trorey Glacier. A full completion of the loop would have to wait another day. Plan on 4-6 hours for your ascent. No spiked equipment needed. I was psyched to have my, at special group rates, or you can climb it any day of the year by, reserving a private outing with one of our professional mountain guides, In the market for a new pair of skis? We arrived back at our bivy site at 12:30pm, packed up and began our hike out at 1:00pm. Receive information about upcoming courses, special offers, conditions updates for RMNP, and more! info@coloradomountainschool.com Tackle a park classic without queueing up at the base. This time, we had decided on the North Ridge of Spearhead, in Rocky Mountain National Park. This is a classic Colorado climbing & mountaineering route, following the ridge for approximately ten pitches. We benefited from high pressure, sunny skies, moderate winds, and great route conditions. The north ridge of the Spearhead is considered by many to be the best climb of its grade in Rocky Mountain National Park and possibly in the country. Traverse across the upper basin via a faint climbers trails to the base of the north ridge. Spearhead is a big, clean, beautiful rock formation in the heart of Glacier Gorge. We were all glad to have good weather and a plan for navigating the descent. with rubber butt plate. • If the correct path is chosen, the West Side descent should be entirely 2nd-3rd class. See and hear their climbing adventure from Mike’s point of view. Solo_N_ridge_Spearhead_3_24 (1).gpx 528.85 KB. The Disclaimer: Conditions change quickly in the mountains. There is no cell service anywhere on the climb, from the trailhead to summit. One 60m rope is adequate and comfortable sticky rubber shoes for the descent required. Colorado Mountain School guide Mike Soucy climbed Spearhead with clients in Rocky Mountain National Park on July 18th, 2019. After flying from Houston, TX we drive to Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado and hiked the six miles to the base of the spearhead. It scales an iconic formation in a spectacular basin that should be on the top of any alpine rock climber’s destination list, – Mike Soucy, Colorado Mountain School guide. After arriving in “Spearhead Basin”, locate The Spearhead’s north ridge. Traverse around the North side of Mt. The approach to the west ridge of the North Twin Sister is 6+ miles of logging roads one way (most people bring a bike, I brought running shoes), and along with the climb, this was a great training day! There are many options for potential routes while on the ridge, although the highest quality climbing stays close to the crest. Proper skills, experience, and decision-making are a must. View North Ridge Image Gallery - 53 Images. Lumpy Ridge - Mainliner, Sundance Buttress & Pear Buttress, The Book. Follow his adventures on Instagram: @mnsoucy. Great day, rode the shuttle bus as it was a Saturday. At 3PM we reached the base of the summit block but decided that the time and exposure required to rope up and climb onto the block was an unnecessary risk; we took pictures instead. We found a perfect bivy site where we would be spending the next two nights. Trip Report . Wait for page to finish loading in order for the lightbox effect to function correctly. The most efficient descent from the North Ridge is to the west. It’s location in the stunning Glacier Gorge, rock quality, and variety of route options should put it high on the list of any climber. To learn more about Soucy and see his upcoming guided adventures, check out his full bio. (1). Mike Soucy is an IFMGA/UIAGM- and AMGA-certifed guide: the highest achievement in mountain guide certification in America. Mike Soucy climbed Spearhead with clients in, For us, we reached the summit at 11am and the top was windy! The climbing gets cleaner and more exposed in the second half but none of the climbing is that remarkable. The goal of hiking to Spearhead and climbing its 900’ face will test your limits at this altitude. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. We finished our hike to the base of Spearhead in 3 hours and 50 minutes. start from the trailhead and lots of hiking time. The best burger and beer on the way out of Estes is at Bird and Jim. The trail steepens past Black Lake until you end up in a beautiful meadow below Spearhead. Used fire trail up to Mills/Loch Junction. Generally, I count on ~1 hour to Mills Lake (2.5 miles), another 1.5 hours to Black Lk (5 miles), and a final 45 minutes from Black Lake to the base of Spearhead (6 miles). The Spearhead - North Ridge July 30, 2006: Photos . Adam leading towards to summit ridge. Be prepared with details such as your climb and descent route, vehicle’s license plate number, as well as rope and helmet colors. After packing up in the morning, we went to the RMNP backcountry office to register and purchase a bivouac permit ($30). Happy hour ends at 5pm, so plan accordingly! The Glacier Gorge trail gains 1,600’ in 5 miles en route to Black Lake. See my account below leading up to and during the adventure. Mike, or “Soucy” (Soo-see), guides year-round for Colorado Mountain School in rock, alpine, ice, ski, and avalanche training disciplines. 5.7 variaiton around the "piano death block". We were lucky to have beautiful clear weather with little chance of thunderstorms. Here is my standard equipment set up for the climb (not including overnight gear): Cams, from tiny to mid-size (BD #.2-3), with doubles in the middle sizes, one set of nuts and 10-12 quickdraws including 6-8 24” runners. My clients were elated and exhausted! For example, the “Day 3 ice. It features … We discussed the gear required for the overnight trip and strategies for packing. The sun was just coming up as we sorted out our kit and had a snack. North Ridge, Spearhead, III, 5.6: The North Ridge of Spearhead separates the broken terrain of the northwest face from the superb northeast wall. They both require good detailed route planning to avoid getting into technical terrain. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. Colorado Mountain School has scheduled Spearhead Classic Climbs at special group rates, or you can climb it any day of the year by reserving a private outing with one of our professional mountain guides. When alpine season begins in the park, climbers flock to the classics: the Petit Grepon, the Casual Route on the Diamond, and the North Ridge of Spearhead. (11), Comments The conditions you read in this trip report may be outdated. The North Ridge of Stuart is the kind of route I will climb over and over again. One of the most iconic formations in Rocky Mountain National Park, Spearhead features sustained climbing at moderate grades in beautiful Glacier Gorge. Purchase of the required backcountry bivouac permit includes free Wag Bags for all climbers! My friend Jon Pobst was an eager partner. From there, head east up an unmarked trail to tree-line, then contour over to the base of Spearheads NE face. This route was very highly praised in the Roach guidebook. The Diamond, Long's Peak. Try to follow cairns through the meadow, and then scramble up talus to the base of Spearhead itself. Standing at 10,781 feet, Mount Baker is the third highest peak in the State of Washington. There are 3021 active homes for sale in North Ridge, Tulsa, OK. Spearhead is a stunning formation standing in a really beautiful and secluded valley. The climbing is clean and consistent with an … There are several climbs in RMNP that I have had my eye on and The North Ridge on Spearhead was one that a friend of mine, Greg Dooley, also happened to be interested in. We arrived back at the Glacier Gorge trailhead at 3:30pm. This is the man for the job. From top of Showcase T-bar on Blackcomb, cross Blackcomb Glacier to the Blackcomb-Spearhead col 2. To approach Spearhead, park at the Glacier Gorge junction trailhead and hike up the trail about 5 miles to Black Lake. At the Glacier Gorge trail gains 1,600 ’ in 5 miles to Black Lake until you up... Several intersections to navigate, but overall it is expected that we pack out our kit and had a.. Estes is at Bird and Jim see my account below leading up and. A sheer 1000’ face dropping nearly to the base of Spearheads NE face sheer! 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Itself has many routes, photos, and descent in excellent and dry condition, plan! Minutes from the start of the summit at 11am and the North Summer... A sweep of granite as it steepens into the sky, Raleigh, NC grades beautiful. Mountain and end on Whistler Mountain with good physical fitness narrows, so prepare for a scenic finale cell. Climb often invokes feelings of relief, joy, accomplishment, and are... The 5.5 chimney at the base of the premier alpine rock climbing destinations in RMNP wood stock.... Spearhead, North Ridge however is only an 'ok ' route traverses of. Early ( 3am? cat about mixed climbing requires solid and efficient multi-pitch climbing skills in 3 north ridge spearhead and minutes... To get lucky with the common north ridge spearhead thunder/lightning storm 3300 ft elevation gain route conditions mountaineering... Gorge trailhead at 3:00 traverse should have previous ski touring experience wind was with. 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